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Managing curly hair is not easy, and even when you try time and time again to perfect your ringlets with the best products for curly hair, you might find yourself hitting a wall. Well, that was me seven years ago: I knew I needed a change and only one thing fit the bill — switching up my curly hair regimen. After a desperate Google search on curly hair routines, I came across a method that many swore by, the Curly Girl Method.

The Curly Girl Method is practically a way of life for curly gals to achieve their best spirals ever. (And I say way of life because it is quite literally something you have to commit to in order to see results — more on that below). It sounds simple, but if I’m being honest, it was everything but simple in the beginning — but I’ve never looked back. Keep reading to learn more about the Curly Girl Method, what it is, how to follow it (even for beginners!) and why it’s good for all curly hair types.

What is the Curly Girl Method?

The method was founded by Lorraine Massey, author of Curly Girl: The Handbook, and the crux of the method is saying yes to specific products and kicking others to the curb in order to achieve curls that are #HairGoals. “The Curly Girl Method is a process of caring for curly hair to minimize damage, promote moisture and reduce interference of the natural curl pattern of the hair,” explains Kari Williams, Ph.D., a celebrity hairstylist and trichologist in Los Angeles. The goal is to enhance and showcase your natural curl pattern and to have a head full of curls that are defined, bouncy, shiny and healthy, too.

What are the steps of the Curly Girl Method?

There are five steps to The Curly Girl Method that take commitment, dedication and hard work, but the payoff is priceless:

1. Reset

“This step involves the use of a clarifying shampoo to remove buildup from the hair strands and give your hair (and scalp) a deep clean,” Williams says. “In this case, sulfates are okay to use because they are formulated to remove and cut through heavy oils and products that may leave build up on the hair.” And if you’re a product junkie, this step is especially important for you: It’s basically stripping your hair of any impurities and gunk that your previous styling method may have created. You won’t do this step every time — just the first time you start.

2. Cleanse

At this point, you can kiss sulfates goodbye: They are no longer welcome in this method. “It’s recommended to follow up with a cleaning conditioner or sulfate-free shampoo,” Williams says. Just be sure to massage your scalp, with your finger tips not your nails, for at least a minute before rinsing.

3. Condition

After two sessions of cleansing, this step surely feels good. Grab your favorite hair conditioner and load it up. You want your hair to feel completely saturated during this step. Personally, I like my hair to feel slippery. Then I know I’ve applied enough conditioner to not only nourish my curls, but to help with detangling, too.

Once the conditioner is applied thoroughly, it’s time to get rid of knots and tangles, a curly girl’s second arch nemesis after humidity, of course. The original Curly Girl Method says steer clear of combs and brushes and after my experience, I’d advise that, too. But many iterations online have updated the method to be more user-friendly and say wide-tooth combs are allowed. But if you want to go with the OG Curly Girl Method, use your fingers. Once your curls are tangle-free, rinse 90% of the conditioner out of your hair. The tiny bit of conditioner left in acts as a primer to your styling products. Trust me, it’s a pro secret that I do every single time.

4. Style

While the hair is still wet, apply your curl enhancing product, Williams says. ”Manipulate the products through your hair from root to ends.” Massey’s product of choice is a curly hair gel and you want to apply more than you think. This will not only help with definition, but it will keep your curls frizz-free, too. It creates a gel cast that may seem hard and stiff at first, but will be “broken” later, so don’t fret. Rake the product through and scrunch the ends of your hair up towards the roots. This movement will become your new norm for applying styling products. It really gets the curl definition to a new level.

5. Dry

No, don’t grab your bath towel to get rid of excess water in the hair, that is officially a no-go when it comes to the Curly Girl Method. “Instead, use a microfiber towel or t-shirt to gently squeeze excess water and product from the hair, then allow it to air dry,” Williams says. Once the hair is completely dry, gently scrunch your hair again to break the gel cast. And say hello to gorgeous, picture-perfect curls.

Now, the lifestyle part comes into play. To commit to this method, you will repeat steps 2 to 5 every time you wash and style your hair. And in most cases, you shouldn’t have to do a reset again, unless you break the method and use a product that is prohibited (more on that below).

What products are not part of the Curly Girl Method?

The Curly Girl Method is known for the purging of many curly hair products with commonly-found ingredients that the method says are ultimately bad for curls. Warning: Some of these may be shocking, but I think it’s really worth it in the end.

• Shampoo: Yes, I know avoiding shampoo sounds downright scary, but the harsh sulfates in traditional shampoos wreak havoc on our delicate curls. So kick traditional, sulfate-ridden shampoos to the curb. Instead, reach for cleansing conditioners and sulfate-free formulas.
• Sulfates: Since we’re talking about them, they’re not just banned in shampoos, they’re banned in all other hair products, too. The main culprits are sodium-lauryl sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate. These Curly Girl Method claims these strip the hair of necessary oils and make it feel stiff, like hay, and nobody wants that.
• Silicones: Like sulfates, silicones are a no-go here, too. And don’t be surprised that silicones are in a ton of products, but they build-up on the hair and, since most of them can only be removed from the hair by sulfates, skip the silicones (and sulfates) altogether.
• Alcohols: In many cases, alcohol is drying to the hair. And while not all alcohols are bad, it’s best to avoid them altogether. Thankfully, there’s formulas that are alcohol-free, so it’s easy to swap products to one that’s curly girl-friendly.
• Traditional bath towels: Gone are the days when you use the same towel for your hair and your body. The Curl Girl Method says towel-drying the hair can not only cause breakage and snapping of the strands, but it also creates frizz. If you don’t prefer air drying, reach for an old t-shirt or a microfiber towel that will sop up water without roughing the hair cuticle.
• Hot tools: While this may be a heartbreaker, straightening your hair is not a part of the Curly Girl Method. And sadly, neither is curling your hair or using any hot tool for that matter. If you occasionally use a diffuser to quickly dry the hair, it’s best to do it on low and cool heat. But don’t rely on a diffuser for your every day or every week drying method.

So what products do you need for the Curly Girl Method?

Once you’ve gutted your curly arsenal of sulfates, silicones and alcohols (more on what’s banned below), you’ve likely found yourself with little left. Here’s where it gets fun, but it does take some time. You’ll want to experiment with a variety of product combinations until your get your ideal mix. Here are the products you’ll want to have on hand for most success with the Curly Girl Method:

• Sulfate-free shampoo: These hair cleansers still get rid of dirt, debris and product buildup, but are formulated with much gentler cleansing ingredients. Remember, you only want to reach for a sulfate or clarifying shampoo if you’ve incorporated products that aren’t CG-friendly. Otherwise, sulfate-free formulations are your new go-to.
• Co-washes: Sometimes referred to as cleansing conditioners, these 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner formulas with higher ratios of conditioning ingredients are great for refreshing curls when your hair doesn’t really feel dirty. They’re hydrating and add great slip for detangling. Plus, they’re easy when you’re short on time.
• Styling products: From styling creams to gels to mousses, the choice is really yours. As long as the ingredient list fits the bill, we say give it a shot. If you like it keep it and if not, try again. Trust us, this process is full of trial-and-error.

Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich Shampoo

DevaCurl Styling Cream Touchable Moisturizing Definer

Hask Curl Care 5-in-1 Leave In Spray

Aquis Lisse Luxe Hair Turban

How long does it take for the Curly Girl Method to work?

Since the chances of perfecting The Curly Girl Method on your first try are slim-to-none, you should remember that this method takes time. Consider it a learning process. Not only do you have to clean up your go-to products, you may have to find new ones that actually work for your hair. So in most cases, it may take you anywhere between one and four months to commit to the method and find your curly cocktail that works. I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again, patience is key.

Is the Curly Girl Method good for hair?

According to Williams, this method is good for curly hair. “There is a combination of keeping the hair free from buildup, which can interfere with how well your curling products work and infusing products that improve moisture and the overall health of your curls,” she explains. And even though it is quite a commitment, a quick search on Google will prove that this method produces beautiful, defined curls over time.

Does the Curly Girl Method work on wavy hair?

Yes, if you have wavy hair, you can use The Curly Girl Method. But it’s important to remember that adopting this method will not transform your wavy hair and make it coily. It may make your waves more defined and even more wavy, but it won’t change your hair type to a totally new one.

What are the pros and cons of the Curly Girl Method?

With all things, there are positives and negatives for this method. If you’re considering making the commitment, here are a few pros and cons I’ve found that you need know:

Pros

• Better hair health
• Enhanced curl definition
• Hydrated curls

Cons

• Best on non-chemically treated hair
• Commitment is necessary
• Pricey and time-intensive

The bottom line: Is the Curly Girl Method worth it?

If you’re looking for your best curls yet, look no further. But just note, this takes some major diligence. Gone are the days when you can run to the drugstore, grab any ol’ product and slather it on your locks. I committed to The Curly Girl Method when I was in college and the hardest part was that I didn’t have a ton of money to try many new products, so the pickings were slim (not to mention, this was at a time when natural hair product options weren’t exactly filling up beauty aisle shelves. But once I found my curly cocktail (leave-in conditioner, curl cream and gel), I was set. Now, it’s been eight years and my curls have never looked better. This method takes time, preparation and planning, but the results are worth it.

Andrea Jordan is a freelance writer covering all things beauty, lifestyle, health and parenting. Her work has appeared on websites like OprahMag, Business Insider, StyleCaster, InStyle, and others. When she’s not writing, you can find her curled up on the couch reading a book or in the kitchen whipping up a new recipe.