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Imagine having a perfectly-tinted pout that lasts for years without the need for lip glosses or tinted lip balms. Enter lip blushing: a semi-permanent cosmetic procedure that adds a natural pink hue and the appearance of fuller lips, akin to a tattoo. With lip blushing, you can enjoy long-lasting vibrant lip color, leaving traditional lipsticks on the sidelines.

Before committing to any cosmetic treatment that involves even a minor degree of permanence, it’s crucial to do your due diligence. We tapped both a dermatologist and tattoo artists for the scoop on all things lip blushing, getting their expertise on its benefits, risks and aftercare tips. Plus, one of our product experts underwent lip blushing firsthand (with photos to prove it!) and shared her experience ahead. Read on for a full scope of what to know if you’re interested in lip blushing.

Meet the experts

What is lip blushing?

Lip blushing is a semi-permanent tattoo process that boosts the shape and color of lips. Ink is deposited into the lip with a needle similar to permanent tattooing, says Dr. Farhang. If you’re expecting a bold lipstick pigment once healed, keep in mind that lip blushing is meant to give lips a natural-looking color since it fades with time.

How long does a lip blush last?

The average lip blushing lasts around two to four years, though it can differ for each person. To extend both its freshness and lifespan, Kondratyev recommends annual touch-ups. These sessions are quite common but not needed in high frequency, according to Swissa. Lifestyle, like how you care for your lips (including your skincare routine and sun exposure), can certainly affect the longevity of the lip-blushing treatment, she says.

How much does lip blushing usually cost?

Higher artist skill levels (plus their location) can bump up the cost. That can near $1,000 on average. Some shops, like Kondraytev’s, cost up to $600 for the first session, plus $250 to $300 for any additional sessions or annual refreshes needed to achieve your ideal look. Other places, like Swissa’s, may charge about $1,000 to $1,200 for the entire visit, including a complimentary touch-up.

What are the cons of lip blushing?

The glaring con rests in the very definition of lip blushing: The procedure is semi-permanent. While it lasts a few years, on average, a touch-up or two is needed, says Dr. Farhang. On the flip side, there’s the possibility of not liking the results.

Dr. Farhang first recommends booking a consultation before the actual procedure. (It’s also worth checking in with your dermatologist on whether they recommend it for your goals.) Shade matching is key here. A great artist can help match you to your most flattering lip color. They can even overline lips to correct asymmetrical shape. Worst case scenario, some dermatologists also offer laser tattoo removal if it doesn’t turn out ideal.

Is lip blushing risky?

One risk Swissa flags is among patients prone to cold sores or herpes. “Outbreaks are triggered by heat and stress, which is exactly what the lip-blushing procedure incites,” she says. “Multiple passes with a fine needle can aggravate the area and create the conditions for an outbreak.” A strict pre- and post-care medication regimen can help prevent this.

“Other constraints include those pregnant or breastfeeding and those that have been on isotretinoin for the last 12 months,” adds Dr. Farhang. She also cautions those who have darker skin tones to keep in mind that severe hyperpigmentation can occur. If needed, a dermatologist may be able to prescribe topical treatments that can help lighten the color.

What is the healing process like?

Basic lip blushing takes about four to six weeks to fully develop, while the healing process can take about one week or longer. By the end, it will fade about 50% lighter — into something soft and subtle — once the lips have healed. Kondratyev and Dr. Farhang walk through the typical lip-blushing healing timeline:

• Right after the procedure: Immediately after having the lips tattooed, you will experience some swelling. This is completely normal, and the swelling will subside in 24 hours. Similar to tattoos, there may be an exfoliation and crusting phase. Dr. Farhang says it’s important to take prophylactic antiviral if prone to herpes breakouts or cold sores.
• The first week: On the first day, your lip blushing will appear bright in color. The color will darken because your lips will scab as the swelling subsides. Lips will get dry and flakey come days three and four. As the skin flakes, you’ll notice the shade change and the color soften to a more subtle tone. Finishing off the first week, the lips will feel a bit dry as the skin rebuilds itself.
• Weeks after: After the first week of initial healing, the lips’ tone looks lighter, almost as if some of the color is missing. Kondratyev assures that this is normal and the color will even out into its final healed color at the four-week mark — the fatty areas of the lip tissue tend to take longer to develop. “After the first week of healing, you may use lipstick or gloss to hide the transitioning stages if you wish,” she says.
• Months after: Though healed, the color development phase takes a full six to eight weeks. All the way up until the two-month mark, your lips may look patchy, uneven or darker than the starting point. Don’t panic: this is your body responding to being tattooed, according to Kondratyev. Once the color fully develops, you can layer more as needed. “You must wait until the lips are fully healed before it is safe to tattoo them again with continued sessions,” she adds. “It’s a journey, but it’s always worth the wait!”

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Lip Blushing: Before and After

Even armed with all this knowledge, a lip-blushing session may still seem intimidating. Nevertheless, GH’s contributing writer Jamie Ueda took the plunge and underwent the treatment herself. Having noticed fading of the natural pigment in her lips as she aged, Ueda hoped that lip blushing would restore her natural color and provide better definition.

It took about two hours altogether, including her 20-minute consultation. Some patients bring in a favorite lip liner or a photo, so Ueda showed her favorite lip gloss as a reference point. Keeping her warm skin tone in mind, her artist chose a blend of different colors that would look natural.

Her lips swelled right after the procedure (as pictured below) but that lip plumper look is merely temporary. The first few days left a bright lipstick effect, which then peeled and flaked into a more natural color. She followed strict instructions to only use Aquaphor or A&D ointment.

Is lip blushing painful?

Since it’s a bit of a daunting procedure, lip blushing artists tend to offer patients numbing options to help with the pain. Swissa, for example, uses prescribed topical lidocaine, which numbs the region for 45 minutes, or a dental block, which injects an analgesic agent directly into the nerves for no sensation for the duration of the procedure.

Numbed between each pass, Ueda said she felt a “prickly” sensation rather than painful. She noted a few moments when it stung but still called it completely tolerable (even with a low pain tolerance). “For anyone that has gotten lip filler, lip tattooing hurts less,” she says. “It also hurts way less than a real tattoo.”

Our final thoughts

Fast forward to a week later and Ueda says she’s more than satisfied (read: obsessed) with her lip blush. Her biggest takeaway for others is to find someone you feel comfortable with and who has an eye for colors. The tattoo colors look nothing like the end pigment, so it may be hard to gauge the outcome, she comments. That means putting a lot of trust into the final results.

While a bit painful for your wallet and lips, it certainly impressed our tester with its stunning results. “It’s great for someone like me who wants to spend the least amount of time getting ready but still look fresh. It really makes your lips pop,” Ueda concludes. “I would definitely do this again.”