Tag: Serum

To determine the best serums, including those with antioxidants, GH Beauty Lab scientists first label-mask the products to eliminate bias, then distribute them to dozens of consumer testers, who use the formulas in their daily routines over a set time period between four and twelve weeks. In the Lab, analysts use the Visia Complexion Analyzer device to track changes in skin during the product’s use, including hyperpigmentation, lines and wrinkles, and pores.

When applicable, the Cutometer machine (below), which gauges skin laxity, is used to measure changes in firmness. Testers also report their feedback on skin’s look and feel during and after use, perceived changes in skin, and product attributes such as ease of use, scent, texture and absorption. Hundreds of data points are then tallied to find the best serums to target specific skincare issues.

Although many ingredients are touted for their antioxidant effects, these are the most proven effective actives to seek out in face serums, according to Dr. Mariwalla:

✔️ Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, known for reducing hyperpigmentation and evening skin tone. It’s the gold standard of antioxidants and is best for combination or dry skin, but steer clear if you’re oily or acne-prone, says Dr. Mariwalla, since “vitamin C does make some people break out.”
✔️ Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, has added benefits including brightening, minimizing wrinkles, and strengthening the skin barrier to lessen dryness and irritation. It’s generally well-tolerated by combination, dry and sensitive skin types, and is also great for acne-prone or oily skin as well.
✔️ Resveratrol, a polyphenol found in the skin of red grapes that has anti-aging effects, boosting firmness and smoothing. It’s great for combination, dry or sensitive skin.
✔️ Vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, which can soothe skin, making it ideal for combination, dry or sensitive skin.
✔️ Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, also a wrinkle smoothing and skin tone-evening active. Dr. Mariwalla recommends sticking with retinol if you’re acne- or oil-prone.
✔️ Green tea, a botanical that has anti-inflammatory effects, is best for combination, dry or sensitive skin.

Antioxidant serums protect skin from damaging free radicals, helping prevent and repair signs of aging. “A free radical is a molecule with an unpaired electron, which means it is unstable and highly reactive,” says Dr. Mariwalla. “Free radicals on the skin are unstable atoms and as such are always seeking that extra electron from other cells to become stable,” she explains. “Once a free radical takes an electron from another molecule, that molecule becomes a free radical, setting off a chain reaction resulting in oxidative stress, which breaks down skin’s collagen and results in wrinkling and a sallow appearance. As these accumulate, the body is affected in the form of illness and accelerated aging.”

Like skin superheroes, antioxidants bind to free radicals and donate their electrons, stopping free radicals from stealing electrons from skin cells and causing damage. Over time, reduced free radical damage means less lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and inflammation, which can lead to smoother and brighter skin.

Everyone’s skin is constantly exposed to free radicals, so an antioxidant serum can be beneficial at nearly any age, starting in the 20s. To incorporate an antioxidant serum into your skincare routine, apply it as your first step after washing your face in the morning, evening or both, “that way it [sits] directly on your skin,” Dr. Mariwalla advises.

If you choose to use your serum once daily, opt for the morning, since during the day skin is more exposed to environmental factors like UV light that can cause free radical damage. Note that antioxidant serums should be used in addition to a broad-spectrum face sunscreen, not in place of one.

April Franzino, the Beauty Director at Good Housekeeping, has over 15 years of experience researching, writing and editing skincare-related content, utilizing the expertise of GH Beauty Lab scientists and top industry professionals such as dermatologists and aestheticians. For this piece, she reported on the research behind, testing protocols for and results of the GH Beauty Lab’s testing of serums containing antioxidants. Franzino also interviewed dermatologist experts for insights into antioxidant serums as a category.